THE ROTUNDA

We’d recommend starting in the rotunda. The stunning ceiling fresco covering 140 x 10 m runs all the way around it, creating a smooth transition from the dome to the walls. Dating back to the 19th century, it portrays the history of trade across five continents, with four grisailles (panels painted in black and white) representing the four points on a compass. The fresco was painted by Alexis-Joseph Mazerolle, Évariste-Vital Luminais, Désiré-François Laugée, Victor Georges Clairin and Hippolyte Lucas.

When we visited the Bourse de Commerce, a Danh Vo exhibition called ‘Before the Storm’ had taken centre stage in the rotunda (on until April 2023). It featured the trunks of oak trees, victims of time and storms, which were selected for the exhibition with the help of the French National Forest Department.

IN SITU ART

We loved these fun surprises that were waiting for us when we visited the Bourse de Commerce. And they reflect one of the principles of the Pinault Collection – the desire to foster a dialogue between the art and its architectural, natural and urban context.

We found the first surprise waiting for us in prime position in the rotunda. Ever hear of the Plagues of Paris? This installation could well be one! It looks like a flock of real-life pigeons has descended on the third-floor balustrade. It’s only when you get a bit closer that you can see they may be real birds but they’re not about to fly away because they’ve actually been stuffed.

This is a 2011 piece by artist Maurizio Cattelan called ‘Others’. And it’s the first in a series of in situ installations that are going to stay on display for longer than the usual exhibitions. You have until 31 December 2024 to check them out.

We almost missed the next one! After you step out of the lift and onto the first floor, you find yourself staring at an empty wall. The large sign in front of it reads: “This piece is being restored – sorry for any inconvenience caused.” What’s that all about? And then you spot it! There’s something moving around down there! It’s a mouse eating through the wall and creating an almighty mess in the process. This piece from 2019 is by Ryan Gander and it’s called ‘I…I…I…’

The third in situ installation is in the Salle des Machines and there’s no chance of missing this one. ‘Seated Artist’ (1971) is a self-portrait of Duane Hanson, an American artist best known for his hyperrealistic sculptures of life.

The in situ installations may have been one of our highlights, but we were also impressed by the way the whole place stimulated every one of our senses. We couldn’t work out where the sound of dripping water was coming from in the stairwell. And then we realised it was a sound installation by Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster reflecting the blurring of the boundaries between the inside and outside worlds.

BOURSE DE COMMERCE - PINAULT COLLECTION
A BIT OF HISTORY

The Bourse de Commerce (Stock Exchange) in Paris has existed in its current form since 1889. But its history actually goes back much further than that. A grand townhouse – or hôtel particulier – stood on the site back in the 13th century until it was bought and renovated by Catherine de’ Medici, the formidable Queen of France, during the 1570s. As part of the work, she had a 31-metre-tall column built in 1578 – complete with what is believed to have been an observation platform for her astrologists.

Victor Amadeus of Savoy eventually inherited the building and set up the Paris Stock Exchange there. After he went bankrupt, the building ended up being sold to the City of Paris. The townhouse was then demolished in 1748, leaving nothing but the column standing.

The circular building, which still stands to this day, was built between 1763 and 1767. It became a grain exchange, with storage on the top floor and space for dealers, inspectors and admin staff in the galleries. A wooden dome was built over the inner courtyard but then destroyed in a fire in 1802. It was replaced with a glazed alternative with a cast iron structure.

The grain exchange fell into disuse during the 19th century and was damaged by another fire in 1854. It remained closed for 30 years until the city decided to set up a stock exchange there in 1885.

Henri Blondel was the architect tasked with the renovation. Preserving the circular design and cast iron roof structure, he moved the entrance round towards the Louvre. That entrance is surrounded by four columns with a triangular pediment on top, where three allegorical figures sculpted by Aristide Croisy stand, representing the City of Paris with Abundance and Trade either side of it.

Members of the public were first able to marvel at the building at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris – the same event another famous landmark was built for… Yes, you’ve got it – the Eiffel Tower! Hard times hit again with the Wall Street Crash in 1929. The Paris Chamber of Commerce was based at the circular building between 1949 and 2016.

In 2016, the owner of the building, the City of Paris, leased it to François Pinault for an initial term of 50 years. The French businessman hired a Japanese architect called Tadao Ando to complete the renovation. Ando added a concrete cylinder with a diameter of 30 metres and a height of nine metres within the rotunda, forming a corridor around the outside.

150 million US dollars later and the restoration work was complete in February 2020. The pandemic meant the grand opening was pushed back until 22 May 2021, though.