Aventine Hill Rome
Aventine Hill Rome
THE AVENTINE Hill
GIARDINO DEGLI ARANCI & MORE
A walk up the Aventine Hill can make you sweat a little, but it’s worth it. A fantastic ambience and a unique (truly unique) view await you!
You can see the Giardino degli Aranci with this great view. The church of Santa Sabina. The most famous keyhole in Rome and a rose garden!
Interested? Then read on!
My rating:
The positives:
Free access to the park, church, and viewpoint. You don't have to book anything and you can enjoy a wonderful panorama!
The negatives:
The only thing I find negative is the behaviour of some tourists who try to take photos without showing consideration for others. Especially at the “secret keyhole”: take one or two photos and then let the next one look. :)
Tip:
At sunset, the light, the atmosphere, and the view are simply at their best, but there are fewer "crowds" in the early morning or mid-morning hours! With e-bikes or a Vespa, the ascent is more fun! More about this below!
Last Modified: 08.09.2023 | Céline & Susi
Aventine Hill
Tickets
The details
at a glance
INTRODUCTION TO THE
AVENTINE
The Aventine is one of the famous seven hills of Rome and was already important at the birth of the Eternal City in 753 BC. For it was on this hill that Remus went to watch for eagles. According to legend, his twin brother Romulus was on the opposite hill, the Palatine. An oracle (circling eagles) would have decided which of the two brothers was allowed to build the first city walls. The winner was Romulus, who became the first king of Rome and built the city on the Palatine.
So much for history.
Today, there is no trace of Remus on the Aventine, but there is still a lot of history and plenty of impressive things to see. Incidentally, the Aventine is also one of the few areas in Rome where there are no shops, no bars and no public transport.
That and the fancy houses make the hill seem very posh. During my last visit to Rome, a historical film was even shot here—because everything looks so authentic!
But what can you discover “up here”? We’ll tell you!
ORANGEN GARDEN at AVENTINE Hill
GIARDINO DEGLI ARANCI
The orange garden – Giardino degli Aranci – owes its name to the orange trees that grow here. (A little note: the oranges are not suitable for eating, they are very bitter!). Originally, this was a garden of the Savelli family, who had their seat here in the 13th century. The fact that oranges can be found here today is thanks to St. Dominic, who planted the first orange tree in the country. This was seen as a kind of miracle tree that bore orange-bright fruit every year.
The atmosphere in this garden is enchanting! There is usually someone playing a violin or guitar, which only adds to the flair! However, the orange trees are not really the highlight of the garden – but the viewing platform (the Terrazza Belvedere Aventino)!
An avenue of pine trees leads to it, in the middle of which you can see the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica. While walking through this avenue, look at the dome. Do you notice a difference in the size of the dome at the beginning and at the end of the avenue? The dome gets smaller (yes, smaller!) with every step. When you stand at the beginning of the avenue, it looks huge, and the closer you get to it, the smaller it gets. Why is that? An optical illusion …
But back to the platform. Once there, you have a wonderful, breathtaking view of Rome: you can see St Peter’s, the Tiber, the Synagogue, even the Pantheon, the Vittoriano and all the way to Gianicolo Hill! An enchanting view that invites many to take beautiful souvenir photos here!
From the Orange Garden you can also see the walls of the former palace of the Savelli family, who donated their entire complex to the Dominican Order.
The church
SANTA SABINA
The church of Santa Sabina on the Aventine is one of the best proofs that Rome consists of many layers (ages). According to the inscription, the prayer house was built in the 5th century (and renovated in the 16th, 17th, 18th and 20th centuries). However, there was already something here before that: houses of the Roman population, which were simply built over.
If you enter the church today, you can even see this, so there is evidence (openings) that the foundations were much deeper. In the 2nd century, a Christian woman named Sabina lived here, was executed as a martyr and is also said to have been buried here on the Aventine.
The north orientation of the church is untypical and special, but has the simple reason that the ancient foundation walls were oriented in this cardinal direction.
The columns in the church are also from the 2nd century, whether the floor too is, is still uncertain.
The wooden ceiling, 31 windows, the large central nave, the mosaics above the columns and the apse are all simple in design, but the space is flooded with light and really shines at certain hours of the day.
Above the main entrance is a mosaic with a golden inscription and two women symbolising the Judaism (left) and Paganism (right) of the church.
On the other side of the entrance (i.e. from the outside), you can still see the original 5th century wooden door with its 28 reliefs (18 are still preserved). Each relief reflects a very significant event for the church. The first relief on the top left is the oldest depiction in wood of Jesus on the cross. Although he is not hanging on a cross here, standing upright and with his eyes open, this is because at this time people refrained from depicting the crucifixion in a truthful and suffering manner.
By the way, next to the entrance portal you find beautiful spolia (components and remains) of other figures, columns or tombs adorn the façade.
BUCO DELLA SERRATURA DELL’ORDINE DI MALTA
The NO LONGER COMPLETELY "SECRET" KEYHOLE
Following the path to the top of the hill, you come to a square called Piazza dei cavalieri di Malta (Sovereign Order of the Knights of Malta). The villa standing here, the headquarters of the Knights of Malta, which houses the Order’s embassy, is not open to the public.
Nevertheless, its façade, or rather one of its doors, has something very special, even unique, to offer us visitors.
In the 18th century, the architect Piranesi designed the building and the garden inside. In the process, he created an avenue of laurel trees through which one can see St. Peter’s Basilica. Exactly where the avenue begins is the wall of the villa, which can be entered through a simple door. But anyone who comes here will see that no one steps through the door, but only looks through its keyhole.
Why is that? Simple: looking through the keyhole reveals a unique view of St. Peter’s Basilica that is fascinating even if you have seen it 10 times! And even if the queue is long: it is certainly worth the wait!
At this point I would also like to mention that the wait would also be less long if everyone didn’t try to take photos through the keyhole. The attempts are mostly futile! Some people manage it – I didn’t. But I also had difficult conditions: a lorry was parked right in front of the cathedral. So I’ll show you how NOT to do it 😉
The effect is only really beautiful with your own eyes anyway!
By the way, the Order of the Knights of Malta has its origins as early as the 11th century. Since 1834, the seat of this Roman Catholic order has been in Rome, since 1869 even with exterritorial status (and its own licence plate… like the Vatican State).
ON THE WAY UP OR DOWN
THE ROSE GARDEN
Susi and Céline used different paths up to the Aventine.
While Susi went up the Aventine coming from the Circus Maximus, Céline went down there ;). But no matter if you go up or down: you will probably walk next to or even through the Rose garden and most people won’t even notice it.
However, there are over 1000 different varieties of roses from all over the world in this beautiful garden. In 1645, this was still a cemetery for the Jewish community, but today it is open to the public, so venture in and relax for a moment!
Céline chose the path up on the Tiber side – coming from the Bocca della Verita and the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, and went up a small cobbled street. You then come out right next to the Orange garden.
Text and image rights: © Céline Mülich, 2022 – 2023
With the support of Susanne Vukan.