Palazzo Venezia
Palazzo Venezia
Palazzo Venezia
BY POPE PAUL II.
The palace changed ownership several times: Austria had control over the building, as did France, and in 1943, it even served as Mussolini’s seat of government. Today, it functions as a museum and houses the Institute for Archaeology and Art History.
My rating:
The Positives:
It's nice to be able to enjoy the tranquillity in two hidden courtyards.
The Negatives:
For “Rome newcomers” there are more interesting museums.
Tip:
If you don't want to go inside the museum, you should at least enjoy the courtyard and the birds chirping there.
Last Modified: 12.03.2024 | Céline & Susi
The details
at the glance
What is there
to see?
As you approach the Colosseum from Via del Corso, you will undoubtedly pause for a moment when you suddenly come across the imposing, large, white building, whose origin and purpose are not known to everyone. This is the Vittoriano, a monument in honor of the first King of Italy, Vittorio Emanuele II.
But if you turn around (with the Vittoriano behind you), you’ll see another building on the left, whose history is equally fascinating but often goes unnoticed: the Palazzo Venezia. When you enter this building (or its courtyard), you’ll notice something within seconds: the silence. Even though just outside, due to the central traffic hub, there was a deafening street noise, there’s a soothing calmness here.
As you climb the stairs to the palace’s gigantic halls, you become more certain that this pleasant silence will pervade all the rooms, allowing you to better absorb the history of the building and its art collection.
We owe the fact that the Palazzo Venezia is in Rome to Pope Paul II. In 1455, he had the palace expanded through new construction and temporarily even moved his residence here. You’ll encounter his brush right at the beginning of the tour – perfectly showcased by appropriate lighting and positioning in the room.
After passing through two smaller rooms (Sala del Pappagallo and Sala delle Fatiche di Ercole), you’ll come across three large halls, which appear even more majestic thanks to their 3-D wall paintings. Opulent chandeliers provide light to the rooms, and the mosaics on the floor evoke the ancient world. The combination of these elements exudes an impressive power. It’s no wonder that these rooms are often used for exhibitions by artists or fashion designers.
After these three halls, the art museum begins, housing some interesting objects. While you can’t compare the collection here to the city’s major museums, you’ll find a few interesting works from the Middle Ages to the Baroque.
The museum also has something to offer for Bernini fans. There are several smaller terracotta works that served as models or for study purposes for larger objects by the artist. Among them is the sculpture “Angel with Title”, which is displayed behind a glass case. This angel later adorned the Angels Bridge, along with nine other angels, in a larger marble version. However, today, only the copy stands on the bridge; the original is housed in the church of Sant’Andrea delle Fratte to protect it from theft and vandalism.
The Palazzo Venezia, with its history and rooms, always surprises with its little discoveries and should be on the to-do list for those who have already seen Rome’s “classics” and want to explore its hidden highlights.
Palazzo Venezia
A bit of history
Even before Cardinal Pietro Barbo was consecrated as Pope Paul II, in 1455, he had a palace renovated, which we now refer to as the Palazzo Venezia. As Pope, he also used this building as his residence for several years. However, after he eventually moved to the Vatican, the palace came into the hands of his nephew, Marco, and thus became the property of the Republic of Venice.
This is because Pope Paul II originally hailed from Venice, and during his time in Rome, he missed the Carnival most of all. Not wanting to forego this festival, he introduced wild horse races during the Carnival season, which had their finish line in Piazza Venezia.
A balcony had to be built for the Pope – which was later used by Mussolini for his speeches – to observe the finish line more effectively. These horse races garnered significant popular support. However, since people crossing the racetrack were frequently killed (the last incident being a boy at the end of the 19th century), these races were eventually discontinued.
The ownership of the palace changed hands several times; for example, Austria controlled the building at the end of the 18th century. Later, the palace briefly fell under French control during Napoleon I’s rule, and in the early 19th century, it served as the seat of the Austrian Embassy.
In 1943, it even became Mussolini’s government seat. Today, it serves not only as a museum but also as the headquarters of the Institute for Archaeology and Art History and the Directorate of State Museums in the Latium region.
The Palazzo Venezia has undergone multiple renovations and expansions over the years. Perhaps the most significant modification was the relocation of the papal gardens to make way for the Vittoriano, the national monument. During this process, the garden was even slightly reduced in size, which, however, did not affect its beauty. 😉
It’s worth noting that the building across from it (Generali Insurance), which now looks like its mirror image, only acquired this appearance in the 20th century. For “optical reasons,” both buildings were adorned with towers and battlements to match the Palazzo Venezia’s design.
Interesting
artworks
1. “La Trinità” by Andrea Guardi
This relief dates back to the 15th century. When viewing Jesus standing on the cross from above, his legs appear disproportionately short and misshapen. However, when one kneels down and observes the work from below, the proportions appear perfect.
The artist clearly demonstrates that hierarchies or rankings are a matter of perspective, always subject to the viewer’s perception. On the other side of the cross, Mary is depicted with the infant Jesus. Her figure, in contrast, appears perfect from any perspective.
2. “Two Friends” by Giorgione (Giorgio de Castelfranco)
Another beautiful example is Giorgione’s painting, “Due amici,” from the 16th century. In his typical style, Giorgione avoids using outlines in this painting, giving his figures a sense of fluidity. However, it remains unclear whether the two figures represent the same person at different moments or two entirely different individuals. While one appears contemplative, the other wears a somewhat mocking expression. Both, however, seem to be reacting to the same thing: the orange in the hand, which is as bittersweet as Venus and can be associated with the fluctuating emotions of love.
Official website of Palazzo Venezia (EN): museopalazzovenezia.beniculturali.it/
Text and image rights: © Céline Mülich, 2020 – 2024
With the support of Susanne Vukan